Rest day

Rest day in Paradise

Kristy, Alan, Vic and me, with Maxie the dog meandered  through a forest until we reached the Snake river which was towered over by the Teton Mountains with the peaks still having snow on them. It is very hard to describe how beautiful this place is. This little walk was only 4kms but it was so nice to give the bum a rest.

We rode in the car to Jackson so Alan could get new tyres for his Mustang, then he took us to where he had booked us in for some excitement. We were going white water rafting down the Snake River, the same section that President Clinton took when he was here on holiday. We travelled by bus for about 16 klm to where our dinghies were waiting,  where  we were given instructions about our life vests, and if we fall over board how to float on our back. Vic got an oar and I sat in the middle up front (yellow hat). The rest on the inflatable were all from one family. Well what good fun we had, one guy fell over board on a huge rapid and the water was freezing . We got soaking wet but it was a hoot, this took 3 hours, Alan and Kristy picked us up then back home to change then back into town, just in time to see a shoot out in the main square, played by some actors promoting the show Annie get your Gun and Wyatt Earp playing in the local playhouse, this was fantastic - then off to the Million Dollar Bar where we sat on saddles stools and drank local beers, Snake Ale Pale Ale, Million Dollar Cowboy beer. We then moved on to the Silver Dollar bar which has thousands of silver dollars under glass on the bar, then on to Worts Hotel, and then the dinner at the  Gun Barrel  Steak and Game House.. another great day

USA Tour Day 26

Day 26 Kanab to Las Vegas 10^th August 2010

214 miles 344Klm  .

Today is our last day on this excellent tour Back to Vegas

Clutch out at 7am and we head for Zion Canyon National Park, it is quite crisp so we put on our jumpers and head out, back track a few miles and refuel, and head to the Park but the road is closed as the Ranger has not yet arrived for work, we wait for 20minutes and proceed thru this beautiful  canyon, the view is spectacular with cliff and canyon landscape and wilderness full of the  unexpected including the world’s largest arch, Kolob Arch, the longest and darkest tunnel, at this point  we find out that the BMW has blown a head light. As we ride down the valley on the new roadwork’s, again the water truck has proceeded before us as Vic has to manoeuvre through the little gravel and water puddles. I take photos again like a woman possessed as the views are just beautiful.

There is red rocks and more bloody rocks, rocks right, rocks left, and more rocks. It is all awe inspiring and just magnificent.

We ride through Zion, crossed the border to Arizona through the Virgin River Canyon, cross the border to Nevada passing the junction of the Valley of Fire where I hopped in the truck on the first day, (because of heat exhaustion being left in the desert for a while) and head for Las Vegas through the desert  and arrived to a Red Rock welcome home by lovely Kristy.

Kristy took me shopping at Costco, much better than WalMart... Just  mind blowing, I was gobsmacked with all the goodies..(no wonder there are so many overweight )I bought a new pair of LARGE tracksuit pants and I am sure they will fit me now...

Total  tour 6670Miles =  10750 klm. Am sure Vic and I have the hardest bums in the USA But it was all worth it.

Hoping that you all have enjoyed Alan’s Excellent American Tour.

As we are having a short ride around Red Rock tomorrow and leaving for Sydney after a Pale Riders Party, this will be our last bulletin.

Until next time

Lyn & Vic

USA tour Day 25

Day 25 Monday 9th August 2010

Torrey to Kanab via Grand Canyon - 640klm - 360 miles. (By Vic)

Alan promised a great day with a lot to see and do.

Had a thunderstorm during the night and woke to a clear crisp morning. We left Torrey about 7.30 am with all our warm gear on as we were to climb up through mountains again for most of the morning before dropping down to 6000ft for the Grand Canyon.

The road was wet from the storm but again great sweepers with a smooth road surface, we came across cattle (Angus) crossing the road and a few deer in the field but the antelope weren’t out roaming.

We went down the other side of this range through a few valleys and then started to climb through a section of the Escalante Park (means the Grand Staircase), wow what a road, at the top it runs and twists along a ridge with either side of the road falling steeply away and without guard rails of any sort. It was hard to look at the fantastic view and maintain concentration on the road.

Dropped altitude again and turned from the highway into Bryce Canyon National Park, we are running out of superlatives. The mountains have eroded into thousand of stalagmite like columns in varying hues of pink through to white, Lyn thought they looked like the terracotta warriors in China. There were individual monoliths caused when the softer layers below a hard cap rock is weathered away. See attached photo.

Coming out of the park we rode through a Prairie Dog jam and then an Antelope jam – bloody tourists.

For the animal lovers the Utah Prairie Dog is the rarest of its kind in the United States, almost as rare as the Jackalope.

Alan had planned to stop at a restaurant specialising in game steaks but it didn’t open until 4.00 pm so we went on to a place that specialises in fruit pies.

We passed through Kanab and rode on about 75 mile further to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon; we entered the Grand Canyon Park and meandered along at the speed limit of 45 mph on a road that could be ridden at twice this speed. But as all National Parks over here are policed by Park Rangers that carry handguns we don’t think it wise to speed.

What can be said of the Grand Canyon that we haven’t read or heard before; it is truly spectacular and much vaster in the flesh than we imagined. We walked out along a narrow path to an overlook that was on a point. Even though there were vertical drops on either side of the path, there were only the occasional 18 inch rock walls, and a 4 ft high fence only for the viewing section.

After looking around the visitors section and an ice cream we returned to Kanab for a shower and dinner. Went out to a restaurant that was a surprise, the meal was as good as you would find anywhere.

Kanab is known as the Hollywood of Utah as there have been many movies made in the area

USA Tour Day 24

Day 24 Sunday 8^th August 2010

From Glenwood Springs to Torrey Utah 292 Miles 470klm

Leaving Glenwood Springs at 9am and the skies looked very grey and we are sure that rain is imminent, Alan puts his lid up on the car, and we are off. Just a few miles out of town the rains came. It rained for a few miles as we rode down the road leaving Colorado and the rain behind.

The vastness s of the deserts, and the rock formations are something else, we ride into Utah and again the countryside changes...Alan is leading us into the Capitol Reef National Park, nothing could have prepared us for the dramatic rock structures which are just magnificent,( I think I took over 200 photos )as the road twisted and turned and the scenery changed colours from dark black ,to black, white to red, slivers of rock to big boulders, hanging rocks, with the river trickling thru, just unbelievable, it really is a sight, I don’t think the photos will do it justice.

We arrived at Torrey a little oasis in the rock formations and tried to book into the motel, but our rooms were not ready so we had lunch in a little cafe up the road, and then the heavens opened up with a lot of thunder and lightning, just as we finished lunch the blue skies were back and we headed back to the motel. We are having dinner in a little cafe across the road.

Being Sunday in Utah most stores are closed

Can it get any better than this??????

USA Tour Day 23

Day 23 Saturday 7^th August 2010

Steamboat Springs to Glenwood Springs 296 miles 560klms

Wow what a day, started out with another brilliant road. Vic and Alan were cruising around corners and having a good time when a passing law enforcer switched on his pretty lights and u-turned to catch and pull both of them over – it turns out we were in a 50 mph zone and were well over this.

After some smooth talking by Alan both of them ended up with a caution and told if they were caught breaking any further road laws in Colorado they would be heavily fined. Rest of the day was good for videoing. We will be in Utah tomorrow and the caution will not count there..Bummer fast again

Alan had planned to take a pass to do a loop through Aspen, the excellent road turned to gravel and some people who were there with quads warned Alan the Mustang would have difficulties getting through. So we backtracked through a town called Basalt and took the main road to Aspen – turned out Aspen is just as busy in summer as it is in winter and it was chock a block full of tourists, we were unable to find a parking spot so decided to ride on to Leadville. Only the rich and famous hang out here so we were outa there.

We went over Independence Pass to a height of 12,300 feet and stopped for a photo shoot,the road was just beautiful, then to Leadville where there was a street festival Back to Boom Days on and had a late lunch of pork ribs.Then we headed back to Glenwood Springs and it started to rain we were ok had out wet weather gear on  but the Red mustang had its top down  Again, We did not get to wet

Going out for nibbles and a soothing beer. Back again had Mexican and it was good tucker

Life doesn’t get any better than this.. till tomorrow 

USA tour Day 22

Day 22 Friday 6^th August 2010

Jackson to Steamboat Springs Colorado 630 km.

After breakfast with Jan, Russ, Kristy and Alan we said our goodbyes to Jan and Russ as they were heading to Sturgis and Canada and we are heading to Colorado. Kristy will be going back to LV to be there when we arrive. Alan led us out of Jackson at 8.00 am, it was a little cool so we stopped and put on more clothes. We rode through Hulbut where more road works were holding up traffic, the worst thing was a water truck had just watered the dirt road to keep the dust down. We saw many, many bikes heading for Sturgis also the highway patrol was on the prowl on both sides of a sleepy outback town. Our GPS was to take us on a route that was on the border of Colorado and Wyoming we travel along a beaut tarred road and then it gave directions to turn left, but that was a gravel road, ummm. After a discussion about how long the gravel went on, I opted out of being on the bike and jumped in the car with Alan, my theory was it gave Vic more flexibility to ride the dirt. We crossed the border many times, the road was in a desert and it went on and on for at least 50klm some places the gravel was very thick in places with several sharp corners, I could see Vic in the distance through dust from the car.

Arriving at small little town we stopped and had KFC and rode on to Steamboat Springs, it is beautiful town with a lot of holiday makers here, and a popular destination for skiers in the winter, there is a wine festival on this week. 

After a short relax Alan suggested that we go to a real American West Rodeo that was on in town... Yeah... we set off in the car as it was just too far to walk. What a great night we had, saw cowboys bull wrestling, roping steers, bull and wild horse riding, there were kids catching a calf to take a yellow ribbon off, then about 60 under five year old kids chasing a lamb to catch to take a ribbon from around its belly, had a hot dog and watched the show it was great entertainment.

Then walked the streets and had a beer and a snack in a bar and then off to bed, another great day.

USA tour Day 21

Day 21 Walkabout no ride

Alan took us into Jackson where we did a walkabout the town, bought souvenirs and walked on the wooden footpath (sidewalk) did a lot of window shopping. Tried on more cowboy hats and had more laughs. Stopped off at Bubbas for lunch and had a small size back ribs which was enough. Got back to the family home gave Vic a number 4 haircut (he looks so handsome )and waited for Jan & Russ Hacon (from Western Australia)to arrive, they were riding a rented Harley from Prairie City which was quite a ride to Jackson just on 800km.They arrived at 6-30pm so we had Moose Drool beer and wine on the patio.

Kristy served a very scrumptious BBQ, with the biggest and best steaks we had ever tasted the steaks were at least 2 inches thick cooked to perfection as you can see in the picture.

After a tour of the “Church”(Alan’s retreat) we finished of a great day with huckleberry ice cream and climbed into bed about midnight, very satisfied with the day.

USA Tour Day 20

Day 20 Wednesday 4^th August 2010

RedLodge to Jackson  222 miles 360km

Continental breakfast at the Comfort Inn and on the road at 7am .The weather after the big storm last night is cool and crisp just great for riding. We again ascend the best road in America the Bear Tooth Pass but this time it is in the fog, very tricky and very foggy, can just make out the white line on the side of the road. At least leaving that early there was no obstacles on the road like ”HDs” we climb higher and it is quite cold and Vic turns on his handle bar warmers, can’t see the scenery but I know we are going to about 10,000 feet up. We reach the summit and it is clear skies, and the fog hangs over the valley and it is very picturesque, as we descend we gather a little speed and we do the sweepers with great enjoyment right then left. Vic is in his element.

We ride through the North East entrance of Yellowstone Park, the tourist are everywhere, RVs, Buses, Pickups, it is really busy we get held up by traffic at a Buffalo jam, and one bull was giving Alan in the red Mustang the eye and was snorting and bellowing, Alan was getting ready to try and get away fast...but with all the traffic around I don’t know where he could have gone. They charge without any warning and I look to the left (we are stationary), and see another bull giving us the eye and was ready to move on us..(Must be mating season), thank goodness the traffic moved on. It was a marvellous sight to see these huge wild animals up close and personal, as we progress down the road we are stopped by a Moose jam, Alan asks the Ranger where is the moose she replied “It was here earlier but has moved on”, but the tourists still stop and rubberneck. As we travel further through the park we see waterfalls and watching the Yellow Stone river ripple across the rocks, just beautiful.

Many motorcyclists are travelling to Sturgis and like to include Jackson and Yellowstone Park on their itinerary, there are all sorts of bikes but most are Harleys many with trailers. Majority of riders have safety bandanas on or nothing at all on their heads, their ears must be freezing, all wave and seem to be very friendly.

We stop to refuel and head to Jackson arriving about 1pm. 

Having a little wine and nibbles on the back patio we feel the earth move, and many things in the house rattle, and lamps swaying. Alan checks on the internet and finds that there was an earth quake 4.8 on the Richter scale, The epicentre was only 6 miles away, in the area where the Ural lost its muffler last week.

Had a lovely meal that Kristy had prepared went to bed about 10pm

 The day was just full of wonderful experiences.

Thursday is a no ride day and we will just do a walkabout in Jackson.

USA Tour Day 19

Day 19 Tuesday 3^rd August  2010

Cody to Red Lodge114 miles 183Klms

I thought it could not get any better....well I was wrong, this was a top day.

We started the day with breakfast served in the old dining room at Irma’s Hotel a lovely old hotel originally owned and run by Buffalo Bill and family. We had a typical western breaky with biscuits and gravy ,scrambled eggs, buffalo sausage, Irma’s baked potatoes, tomato salsa, all good tucker. (Irma was Buffalo Bill’s daughter). We then did a walk of Cody main street and tried on some cowboy hats and had a great laugh, did a lot of browsing the shops until it was time to move on to the Buffalo Bill Museum.

The museum is incredible, divided into several sections it illustrates by paintings and artefacts both Indian and old time western culture. It has an arms section that has some 2700 guns, some dating back centuries. It centres on the life of Buffalo Bill and his family but gives an accurate viewpoint of the times. Well worth visiting and spending hours in, which we did.

We then rode what must be the best motorcycle road in all America, Bear Tooth Pass. Probably one of the best roads Vic has ridden and we have to ride most of it again tomorrow. For those that ride if you can imagine a road with an almost perfect riding surface and corners that have a constant radius and a road that goes on and on and having Harleys to pass, you know we are in motorcycling heaven.

When we first started the upward ride we could see a storm brewing in the mountains and with deadly accuracy the road wound straight for it. Rode into it and always climbing we eventually went above the snowline to 10,947 feet, the views at the top were stupendous.

We arrived in Red Lodge in Montana and staying at the Comfort Inn. Walked about half a mile to the first bar and had a beer, then the next bar for a beer, then a wine bar for dinner. An excellent meal and another kilogram to lose when we get home.

Leaving the restaurant we had only walked about 200 metres and stopped to look at a Pan Head Harley under a marquee when the rain bucketed down. We were getting sprayed under the marquee so seeing the roller shutter door to the HD workshop was open and there was a lounge chair we went inside, consider this is 9.00 in the night and the workshop had several Harleys inside plus all the equipment. Waited there for about 30 minutes when a young guy came down from a living area and realising our plight volunteered to drive us back to our motel – Montana hospitality at its best.

Looking forward to tomorrows ride back to Jackson.

Found out more about the rarest of animals, the Jackalope, it can only be hunted in the first full moon of a leap year.

USA Tour Day 18

Day 18 Deadwood to Cody August 2 2010

359 Miles 578 Km

A continental breakfast on the terrace overlooking the river and after a shower of rain the night before, the air is crisp and clean. We meet Alan at the car where he dons his new safety hat and puts +50 sun cream on and we move out at 7-25am.

We have highway riding today leaving the Black Hills of Dakota we head back through Wyoming. The roads are just great and the scenery is again different to what we have seen. There are oil pumps near the road.

I see a herd of deer in a paddock and the rolling hills are just beautiful.

We pass towns which have familiar names like Gillette, Buffalo and Wild Mustang, and even Crazy Woman Creek, then turn off the highway and up a wonderful pass with 30 mph continuous corners, only to be held up by three riders on their bikes which were obviously too big and heavy for them to handle also with road works being in progress and thick wet gravel had just been laid, it was quite comical watching these guys trying to manoeuvrer these big bikes laden with camping equipment. 

We stop at Bear lodge and have lunch, and Alan tells us about an animal which is called a Jackalope (like a jackrabbit with antlers) which is indigenous to Wyoming. At first we don’t know whether he is pulling our leg ....but a cowboy at the lodge showed us one that had been stuffed. Most unusual animal.

We were shown a picture of the Medicine Wheel Historic landmark which is a sacred site nearby, it was a three mile hike to see it so we so we settled for the picture. This dates back to 1200-1700AD and a very sacred site to the Indians.

Moving on from lunch the road twists and turns and we reach 9452 feet above sea level on a pass over the Bighorn Mountains, the scenery coming down on the other side is just breathtaking and the colours in the distance with pastel shades of yellow, orange and greys really beautiful. Vic is really enjoying himself as the sweepers are just magic. We stop at the bottom to admire the Big Horn Lake and have a break.

The road again straightens out and we arrive in Cody.. Alan and I did a little shopping at WALMART (quickly so not to have our photo taken).. yeah.. we head out to the Buffalo Bill Dam which is a few miles out of town and in the Yellowstone Valley. Further on we pass a hunting lodge that Buffalo Bill used.

Alan drove us to a restaurant called Cassie’s where we had an excellent meal of Rib Steak, Vic reckons it is the best he has ever had. Started talking to a man on the next table who heard we were Australian and said he recently rode from Airlie Beach to Perth on dirt roads, including the  Simpson Desert which took him sixteen days to cross and where he broke 5 ribs. He also did the central deserts and the Gun Barrel Highway, one of his mates was air lifted out. We wondered why?

USA Tour Day 17

Day 17 1st August 2010

Deadwood Tour day 162 miles  261klm

A sleep in day, clutch out at 9.00 am and head out on a clear sunny morning towards Mt Rushmore and ride through Keystone as we were coming back there for lunch at ‘Ruby’s’ one of Alan’s favourite restaurant.

We arrive at Mt Rushmore and walk to the viewing platform of the four presidents which proves to be much more than any photos can do justice. The sculptor Gutzon Borglum and 400 workers started working on the faces in 1927 and completed what we see today in 1941. It is a magnificent sculpture. (Saw a Marmot here).

From there we go to the memorial sculpture of Crazy Horse, a great Indian Chieftain. The sculptors, Ruth and Korczak Ziolkowski, started in 1947 at the suggestion of local Sioux chiefs. Whilst it still has a long way to go, even now whilst only the head has been finished, it is amazing. The visitors centre is  a large complex which has numerous halls dedicated to the Indian history and arts, and stalls of local crafts. Whilst we spent a better part of an hour there, we could have spent much more as there was so much to absorb.

Headed back to Keystone and lunch through the Custer State Park hoping to see some bison but only seen where they had been on the road. The roads were great as usual and in places we passed through several one lane tunnels with spectacular views of Mount Rushmore framed in the tunnel exit. There were also sections of the road that were a 15 mph spiral, an interesting way of quickly coming down a hill.

After we all had an Elk burger we left in a thunderstorm which cooled things down and sent most of the HD riders scurrying for shelter. Travelled about 60 miles to Sturgis where we had a visit and beer at a tavern, did a bit of shopping and sightseeing then went to the Knuckle Saloon and decided to have dinner here as it was a fascinating place with memorabilia, the meal was excellent.

Travelling back to Deadwood a deer sprang out and went across in front of Alan, luckily the second one decided to stop.

Another m a visit and beer at a tavern

Another Magical day.